Stefano Pilati out at Yves Saint Laurent

Above: Stefano Pilati reacting to the news that he's been let go. I'm kidding, but seriously dude, why the long face?

Stefano Pilati's contract at YSL has not been renewed. Major sads. The fall 2012 collection will be his last and his successor will be named after the show. Rumoured to take over is Hedi Slimane. Pilati has been head designer at YSL since spring 2005. In that time he's raised the profile of the brand which has finally broken even after years of debt. Below are some of my favourite looks over the years.

Above: Spring 2005. A strong debut sets the tulip/bubble skirt trend.

Above: Fall 2005. Mariacarla Boscono in a cropped le smoking. This collection set off the trend for platform shoes.  

Above: Spring 2006

 Above: Fall 2008 featured Pilati's best cut pants that were full at the waist and cropped above the ankle. If you watch the show on Youtube a lot of the clothes in this collection appear to float around the body.

Above: Spring 2008 had wide-shouldered looks and brilliant use of colour.

Acne Fall 2012 Review

So far Jonny Johansson's fall collection for Acne has been one of the highlights of fashion month. In some ways his remarkable use of colour, texture and silhouette reminds me of Prada because there's love put into the clothes but they also have an air of severity and look uncompromisingly cool.

Coats were wide, cropped, pillowy and brightly coloured while pants were low with built-in girdles elongating the silhouette. The fabric textures were incredible in their range from spongy to pilled to shiny and slick. Cinching was in play too with wide Bakelite-look belts, the aforementioned girdles and chin-scraping neck pieces. In what feels like only a couple of seasons Acne has gone from just another denim brand to directional fashion house. Weird right?

Altuzarra Fall 2012 Review

My opinion on Joseph Altuzarra tends to waver somewhere between awful and point of interest. I've not forgotten his dubious spring 2011 show that featured tribal snakeskin appliqué nor his penchant for liberally borrowing from his design idol Tom Ford.
However with less than ten shows under his belt his latest collection is his most accomplished. He showed military coats, cargo pants, French-style skirts and jackets, and Asian influenced trimmings such as coins and pom-poms appeared throughout. It all sounds like a lot to juggle into one collection but there was restraint and a sense of reality to most of the pieces. He delved-rather unsuccessfully-back into velvet with a pair of flared trousers and a bottle green jacket that somehow managed to add about 20kg to the model thanks to the way it was cut to pull away from the body. Though I enjoyed most of this collection I still got whiffs of other designers work, most notably Nicolas Ghesquiere's fall 2007 collection for Balenciaga.

Prabal Gurung Fall 2012 Review

After Prabal Gurung's last spring collection-digital prints and Japanese rope bondage-I was starting to perk up my ears at his work. Unfortunately his fall collection had me lost. Not for words (I have plenty of those) but just like, where is this collection going? Some people are seeing Givenchy references with the hats, the frills and the gown that closed the show. Whether or not he mimicked Givenchy intentionally or not is irrelevant because the show was shit. It started out strong with the first 5 looks all in black but then turned into a drag queens interpretation of Donatella Versace at a fetish club. It was all vampy cut-outs and sheer fabrics. But then the collection turned again with coats that had abstract lumpy fabrics thrown in. It was a pained experiment in texture that was totally not needed. Gurung continued his interest in digital prints from last season but this time around it felt tired and didn't look as though a lot of thought had gone into them.
There were also a few stand out pieces of what-the-fuckery that are worth mentioning, even if it's just for the lulz: The dress jacket with opalescent sleeves. Like, what is air? Those fucking frilled dresses and that sexy gold disco dress. Bitch please, you couldn't even get into a roller disco in that.

On a positive note, I'm not sure if this is a new collaboration but the sunglasses were made by Linda Farrow.

Doo Ri Fall 2012 Review

Doo Ri Chung's fall 2012 collection was aggressive but also very alluring. The opening look, cream pants with a silk waistband, and a draped top wrapped around the neck, with knit sleeves looked effortless and on paper it sounds overwhelming but it worked. This criss-crossing motif was peppered throughout the collection of mostly black daywear in jersey and leather. Some of the knitwear looks were more successful than others due to the fact that draped chunky knits are almost impossible to flatter even the most ano of models. There were also a few pieces that had very detailed lattice-like details which the collection could have done without because it looked fussy. I think the the collection was bold, inspired take on American sportswear.

Needs It

Chanel PVC mum jeans. All in one sentence. All in one glorious garment. Can you fucking believe what you're looking at? It's like Cinderella's glass slipper or some shit. That's if Cinderella were a single mum working nights at an upscale VIP cocktail bar in Tampa. 

Balenciaga pre-fall. Those shoes. That leather. The fucking hair!

Margiela Persian rug boots. To rub over my naked body.

And this dude. Rolled in sugar. On a stick.