Chloe Spring Summer 2012 Review





Well Hannah MacGibbon sadly got the boot from the director's chair and former Pringle Of Scotland designer Clare Waight Keller jumped right in and had a go at cracking the reins. And she did well.
"Fluidity and femininity, but boyish" is how Keller summed up the collection and that's exactly what she gave us. There were sort of Swiss dot lace shirts, low slung dresses and skirts with thick leather belts that I'm not sure were needed. The embroidered florals were a design lifted from  Karl Lagerfeld's tenure which I thought was quite a bold move and I like that she cherry picked bits and pieces like that from a past designer because there's a nice history of great designers who've worked at Chloe.

Like Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo before her, Keller is selling the same dream. The Chloe girl is a care free, tomboyish character who'll always look back fondly at the 70's. If anything, Keller is dipping her toes and treading lightly across the Chloe DNA.

It's a solid collection but for a debut it doesn't scream at you and the Chloe girl never screams but Keller will have to work her way around that otherwise she'll end up in designer purgatory like MacGibbon and Paulo Melim Andersson.


Stella McCartney Spring Summer 2012 Review





The collection started out with clean whites and aquatic blues. Very fresh, very sporty. Up close you could see sports mesh inserts traced with embroidered curlicues which softened the clothes making them ever so slightly strange-in a good way.
The silhouette was slightly boxy thanks to an absence of belts. In fact there was no ornamentation at all, the clothes with their corded curls and bold micro prints were enough without the need for extra junk. The boxy shapes continued with pyjama shirts (a trend that's been rearing it's dubious head in a smattering of collections for the past 3 seasons) and McCartney's signature tailored jackets this time done with beautifully curved lapels and plenty of swing.
What resonated most was that despite the curves and the embroideries it all looked straight forward and easy to wear. The collection wasn't brimming with ideas but there were enough to make it one of the best of the season. 


Get Inspired


Be fabulous like this little ball of glitter.

Tom Ford Spring Summer 2012 Review



I’ve been looking at Ford’s latest collection for spring 2012 and I’m struggling to come up with a conclusion about it. It’s difficult because Ford’s positioning of his brand is unusual and confusing. On a retail level the Tom Ford brand is just like all the other luxury brands with advertising in magazines, stores in major capital cities and entry-level luxury items such as fragrance and sunglasses (I say entry-level but $500 for sunglasses is hardly a discreet purchase). But on a fashion level it’s confusing. Ford is yet to present a typical runway show with press, photographers, critics, journalists etc, just like all other brands normally do at fashion week. Instead Ford has held intimate presentations to a hand-full of tippy top fashion people with no photography allowed. Several months later Ford releases a look book to the public. His spring show look book was just published on Vogue.com, two months after the spring shows. When he did this whole secret show thing for his debut he definitely created buzz. It was exciting to read reviews by critics and frustrating not being able to see any of the clothes. But three seasons in and for me the thrill has worn off.
Once fashion month is over I feel exhausted by all the collections I’ve seen because there are way too many people showing at fashion week so when Ford’s collection pops up on Vogue.com I’m a little underwhelmed by it all. It’s weird, it’s like Ford is more than happy for me to buy one of his Private Blend fragrances and porn star aviators but the clothes are to be kept away from me which makes me feel like a peasant (which I totally am). He’s treading two luxury environments and getting mixed results. It’s masstige and super-exclusive fashion. At fashion week you’ve got a media circus all seeing the same shows and from that you get these runaway ‘it’ items that can get huge press coverage or brand buzz such as those YSL pumps with the gold armour plates. Ford isn’t getting that.
 Ford’s spring collection is a reminder of what Tom Ford did well 10 years ago at Gucci and YSL which doesn’t bode well because it makes him look out of touch. He has said himself that he isn’t following trends which is evident in the off-trend peasant tops and bow-ankled sandals. There was too much going on with many looks that were teeming with tassels, fringing, ruching, ruffles, bows, and gold hardware. This detail explosion is tiring as your eyes have nowhere to rest. Overall it was too fussy and too flashy. There were still elements there that make me like Tom Ford’s work but if you’re looking for trends and direction you won’t find it here.

Baby Posh


Seriously you guys, Victoria Beckham's baby has barely crawled out of her fujitsu and she's already more stylish than I could ever hope to be. Ugh, is she wearing a Vivienne Westwood burlap wrap? Or is it a peasant cape by Undercover? 
Well, it's still spring in Australia and it's already 33 degrees (that's about 91 degrees for those in the US. Pff, look at me, catering to the total of about five people that read my blog. Deluded on line one.). So yeah, I'm sweating like a whore in church and it's like, what the fuck am I supposed to wear this summer? Tulle? A mesh skort? I'm just gonna end up in an artfully draped linen sheet and Roman sandals for the next 5 fucking months. It's going to be epic. 

Givenchy Spring Summer 2012 Review



The theme for Givenchy's latest collection was-according to head designer Riccardo Tisci-about a surfer who falls in love with a mermaid. For someone who usually does dark, romantic and gothic clothes I was thrown off a bit. I guess he's taking a mental vacation and lightening up a bit. Maybe even smoking some weed on a tropical beach gave him some ideas. 
Though this collection is beautiful it failed to spark my interest. There was a strong focus on tailoring but many of the clothes were too rigid and looked like they belonged on mannequins rather than models or real people. Some of the shapes, like rippling waves of fabric overwhelmed the models and splayed out at odd and unflattering angles. Unflattering would have to be the major fault of this show due the the wide cuts used on so many looks. The worst look was on Fei Fei Sun, a silver sequined mess that made her look about 20kg overweight. 

Kidult for Celine


Graffiti artist Kidult has collaborated with Celine on a piece for their Paris store. Celine's latest ad campaign features Daria Werbowy hanging about a house holding a skateboard so Kidult has sprayed 'SK8' over their Paris storefront. It's edgy stuff. He's embracing luxury consumerism and he's reclaiming graffiti and skate culture at the same time. Someone get ArtForum on the phone.


 

Versace for H&M

I'm not a huge fan of Versace. It's always too perfect and well, it's being lacking in creativity for a number of years now but 80's and 90's Versace is hilarious. If I was European and of questionable age then I would wear Versace all year round on my luxury catamaran.

Below is the video with Daphne Groeneveld, Lindsey Wixon and Queen Donatella. And she speaks! But there's no crazy speech impediment, just her glossy white mane and giant capped teeth. It's amazing.

Shit that's on Sale for a Reason

Just doing some online snooping and had a revelation of sorts. Well not a revelation, I think I'm merely pointing out what is obvious: Sale items are fucking ugly. Case in point:


It's like Gareth Pugh for Jacqui E or some shit. And do you know it was originally priced at US$315? It's now $95 and not surprisingly it's available in every size. 

The sale area of a store-bricks and mortar or online-is always a bit of a freak show. All the pieces from a collection that just don't work get relegated to the sale area and wait to die. It's like a rest home for retarded  clothes on life support. What's sadder is those pieces that could've worked if only some minor abortion of a detail hadn't been added or if it were done in a different colour. Like the oatmeal single mother having a night out at Tabaret with the girls wrap above. Maybe if it had been done in black or navy? Even then I think you'd be clutching at straws with this top it's best to get a knitting needle and do away with it. Next item:


A checkered mall goth at a Nascar meet and greet scarf. Originally US$175! Why pay so much to look so awful? You don't have to. It's a snip at US$53. As if owning this scarf isn't bad enough, paying $53 for it would be enough to make me hang myself with it. 


I've got an idea. Let's put an exposed zipper a few centimetres across from where a zip would normally go. It's never been done before. The reason it's never been done is because it's daft. That's right, daft. How's a guy supposed to take a piss in these? I think if I were at a bar I'd just piss myself, you know, to make things even more awkward. They could be yours for US$93, reduced from US$310.