Altuzarra spring summer 2012

From the opening look, a short, black leather dress with a sliced detail exposed the skin, Altuzarra had sex on the brain. The swoop of fringe covering part of the model’s faces and the pointy mid-heel stilettos were reminiscent of Tom Ford’s debut at YSL. Perforated leather tops added to the sports trend emerging from New York and after last summer’s excessive and unfavourable use of white I’m surprised to see designers-Altuzarra included- turning out more white looks. That’s racist!

So what worked? The dresses with a flounce hem and slits exposing a brightly coloured jungle print. The print appeared on a tailored jacket and in panels on a dress. The mid riff has to make a comeback. His knit version was a 90’s wet dream and I think I could pull this look off. With Spanx. The nylon belts with plastic sports clips were cool but managed to even make the models look thick in the waist which is ironic considering sport and obesity are like chalk and cheese. You know when you see a chunky person wearing Nike Shox and you’re thinking the only thing you’d run for is dollar day at 7-11 bitch. It’s like that. Speaking of chunky, I loved the bold knit jumpers in yellow and green but the rasta knit dresses missed the mark.

Some of the jackets appeared to suffer from fit issues. I don’t know if this was intentional but they looked heavy and lumpy. And the less said about those squidgy clay vests the better. No one wants to look like they fashioned their clothes from Fimo. The skirts that accompanied the Fimo vests were sexy and plenty of girls will want them. By girls I mean Carine Roitfeld. Because of these fit issues, Altuzarra’s collections have a janky quality to them. He borders so close to vulgar that it’s easy to see why people such as Carine Roitfeld love his clothes. I don’t mean that as an insult to Altuzarra or Roitfeld. It is what it is and bad taste can be fun right Christie?

Lisa Luder, associate fashion editor for Vogue magazine


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