In a few months you will want Kenzo

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony are now the creative directors of Kenzo. Hipster alert! Antonio Marras who has designed for Kenzo since 2004 got the boot and the OC duo will show their first Kenzo collection in October for Spring 2012.

According to Getty, Kenzo is to be repositioned in the contemporary sector, with prices expected to range from 200 euros to 1,500 euros ($285 to $2,135).

I think this could go well. I like OC stuff even though the price range is out of my reach. Like the Pendleton collab they did was amazing but fuck, the prices were steep. I think for quite a few years now most people don't even realise Kenzo have a clothing line (except for fashion people) and just think of it as a fragrance brand. Marras isn't a terrible designer but his collections just never struck the right chord with buyers and the public.

Their appointment at Kenzo reminds me of Nicola Formichetti at Mugler. These big brands getting in young(ish) people with creative backgrounds but with no actual design training. A lot of people don't agree with that idea but it's not necessarily a bad thing. Fashion after all is about marketing a product and getting buzz. Formichetti has launched Mugler and it seems to be doing well and the OC duo will undoubtedly do the same for Kenzo.

So what can you expect from the new Kenzo? Well Kenzo under the direction of Marras featured a lot of ethnic/tribal (ugh I hate using those words. So racist right?!) prints and a lot of the clothes were big, flowy and romantic. He's also a great colourist. I think under the OC duo a lot of that romantic flowy stuff will go. The prints will stay because that's what the founder of Kenzo was known for. So I'm guessing ikat print skinny jeans? Or a duffell coat lined in kimono silk? Something like this....

New banner

Can't decide which is better

I do love the 2nd one but I think the red is too dark on the left hand side. More importantly how amaze does Sessilee Lopez look in Alexandre Vauthier? Let me be you for a day! I would have sex with so many straight men. In that jumpsuit.

Hay Gurl Hay

Bjork is back with new album Biophilia and the promo shots are cool. They are by Inez and Vinoodh and m/m Paris. But my question is who designed the clothes? She wore Alexander McQueen on Homogenic and Hussein Chalayan (who just recently changed his label to Chalayan) on Post (which I saw at his exhibition in Tokyo which made me squeal. It wasn't the paper jacket she wore on the cover but it was like I'm looking at fashion history here and I'm going to have an aneurysm). 

Can we have a Bjork moment? Yes we can. 

Post-1995. Jacket by Hussein Chalayan. Shot by Stéphane Sednaoui
I used to have this poster on my wall when I was a teenager. It was fucking huge. I was obsessed.

Homogenic-1999. Dress By Alexander McQueen. Shot by Nick Knight.

Sednaoui also did the cover of Kylie Minogue's 1997 album Impossible Princess. They used to date.

lol. Worst album ever! However she is wearing Veronique Leroy so I can stop being such a hateful bitch

Giambattista Valli

I've never been interested in Giambattista Valli. His work has always felt too fussy to me and not very I don't know. His work has never caught my attention. His work is in line with that of say Valentino, Jason Wu or Oscar De La Renta. That is to say, someone who designs for the ladies who lunch set. But my lack of knowledge of his work is why I don't appreciate it but with this being his first haute couture collection I was curious to see what he'd come up with. I loved it. Not all of it but a lot of it. It was what you'd expect from a couture show in a traditional sense. Lots of bead work, feathers, ruffles, pearls, lace. All that jazz. My favourite look was the white shirt with tweed (I think) pencil skirt. It was designed to look as though the shirt was peeking out from the hem of the skirt. It was just so fucking smart and sharp and sexy. It was perfect. And the capes were cool. At first I thought they were a bit too much but then I'm like, no, the Dior caftans were too much. Joan Smalls in a black dress with white cape is not too much. If I could wear that look it would be at the airport walking to the gate, boarding a plane.

Joan Smalls is the baddest bitch on the runway

The Dior Clown Show

Galliano is gone. It's sad. People who loved his romantic vision for Dior now have to deal with the fact that it is gone and never coming back. It's kinda like if you have a favourite restaurant and suddenly it's under new management with a new menu. Same name, completely different experience. And people hate change.

I fell in love with Galliano's work in the early 2000's when he started doing epic overblown collections. The trailer trash collection, the Peking opera collection or the rave collection with the ghetto blaster handbags. These are the collections that made such a huge impression on me. Of course it got to a point where the dresses were pouring out onto the runway like fashion slime, the models trudging along with hyper real cartoon drag queen kabuki makeup before it had to change. So for the past few years the collections have become less dramatic in every sense. The silhouettes were roped in, the make up was tamed and the clothes less experimental. And that's when things got boring. At the end of each collection Galliano would talk about the house heritage, the bar jacket blah blah blah. The clothes looked like they belonged in the archives from the 40's and 50's. I have a feeling that this wasn't entirely Galliano's choice and that executives wanted to reposition the brand from wild French bitch to demure mademoiselle. 
Since Galliano's departure, Dior executives have said they'll take as long as they need to before choosing the new head designer. So in the mean time they've got studio director Bill Gaytten and first assistant Susanna Venegas filling in. 
According to Gaytten he wanted to do something more modern which begs the question why look back at past collections to achieve this? The only thing that I could pin to his statement was perhaps the fact that the inspiration for the collection was architecture. To my memory (and correct me if I'm wrong) Galliano never chose architecture as a theme or inspiration for a collection. He was always inspired by culture, native costumes, noted figures, uniforms. Architecture? Not that I can recall. 


Early 2000's

This is from Spring 2008. I know right? 

The collection wasn't terrible but I didn't find it cohesive. That's what got me the most. The first 18 looks were like early 00's Dior. I think Cathy Horyn from the New York Times described the hats as dumb but I liked them. There were pastel colours and stripes inspired by the Memphis movement of the 80's. They were fun and mostly cool. But then the collection changed into the Florida queen movement of the 60's. And I don't mean that in a Project Runway kinda comment, you know, like whoa what a hot mess. No, the models really looked like queens. 


So after the ladies sauntered out, worked the pole and took some front row guests to the champagne room for a private dance the show ended with a series of big, overblown gowns that lacked finesse. They looked lumpy and ill-fitting. 

I don't get it. Maybe Mr Gaytten has drug problems too? 

I think I read on someone's blog (I can't remember. Maybe it was a comment on someones blog?) that perhaps people were expecting a miracle like Sarah Burton at McQueen but it didn't materialize. I think that execs played a heavy hand in this collection. I have a feeling they told Gaytten to make the collection fun and light-hearted. If they didn't and this was all his own doing then surely it will also be his unravelling.