Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2011

Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear

In the lead-up to Gareth Pugh’s show for spring 2011 I fished around the web and decided to take a look at my long-neglected Twitter account to see if there was any info about it.
I read a few angry tweets from some bitter fashion weirdos that he was showing a video and skipping the runway show. From someone who doesn’t attend the front rows of Paris (totes wish I was) I personally don’t care if it’s video or runway. At the end of the day I view everything on a computer screen (like a massive loser).
The collection is really more of the same we’ve seen from Pugh since he gained financial backing from LVMH, what was it, 3 seasons ago? The same being rather polite, commercial, approachable fashion and that’s not very Pugh at all.
There were wide leg trousers, asymmetric leather jackets and long silk tops in black, white and grey. The colour scheme overall was unadventurous and felt like a pretentious goth club hangup but who am I to judge? My idea of edgy is double denim. Kerazebomz!!
As the clothes become less theatrical and more wearable they look a lot like something Rick Owens would do which isn’t surprising considering he interned with Owens. In LVMH’s hasty attempt to commodify Pugh I think his room for growth as a creative talent is being stunted. It seems ironic that throwing money at a young designer such as Pugh would staunch his creativity. When he should be freed up to really create something outstanding I get the feeling he’s stressing about money and sales. That’s the impression I get when looking at this collection.
On the other hand he has a newly opened store in Hong Kong and that won’t pay for itself and to get LVMH financing is May-jah when there are so many struggling young designers who can only dream of being in Pugh’s shoes.
I feel like he should still be exploring who he is as a designer, an artist, a person but this collection was mostly things we’ve seen before and felt too familiar. You could argue that he’s building upon a signature but we’re talking about a designer who’s got less than 10 collections under his belt.

I know that it’s fashion and fashion is about selling a product but Pugh is capable of so much more than just that. He’s one of only a handful of designers working today who can push the limits of fashion, art and sheer spectacle.


Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2011. 
It's just a sweet sweet fantasy baby

Fashion Therapy

Scootin through the NYTimes Style section and there's a Milan fashion week round-up from Cathy Horyn. She cracks me up with her tone of voice. It's like she's teaching fashion theory to ESL students. She just speaks in this slow, calm voice, like a therapist talking someone down from a ledge. I love it!!!!

Watch it HERE

Pringle Of Scotland

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Girlfriend looks like Pocahontas tried to give her a makeover before she got mauled by a bear.

And these shoes!!! What the actual fuck do you think you're doing? I'm getting a bad Project Runway furnished by Piperlime vibe. And check out the creepy pinky toe trying to make a hasty exit. That pinky is all I left Payless for this?

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Pringle are supposed to be known for their knits so it's like, stick with it and do the best fucking knits you can. Look at Missoni. They do knits and they milk it for all they've got and they're doing their best work in years. You don't see them pulling some monochromatic Topshop interpretation of Balenciaga. It's just so severe and off-trend.
It's good when you see a designer going in a completely different direction to their peers and winning people over but this is just so awfully misguided and lord love a duck we've been here before, people want to move forward not mooch about in 2001 wearing sports-mesh kilts. Are we going to do some ecstasy now? Can I play my Sonique CD?

Jonathan Saunders

I love colour-blocking so I tend to automatically love a Jonathan Saunders collection because it's becoming his forte. The choice of colours were nice particularly the yellow with the dove grey. The clothes though, well they're really not worth writing home about. Shirts with sporty raglan sleeves, box pleat tennis skirts blah blah, all familiar shapes, completely wearable and non-threatening. Actually I did like the full cut of the sleeves on the shirts which is something that popped up at Prada too.

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Michael Van Der Ham

This is Michael Van Der Ham's third collection and the clothes look like they have multiple personality disorder. Or maybe Frankenstein's wardrobe. In a good way. It's like different dresses reconfigured to make something new. So instead of wearing just one dress with say, a cute print, you get 3 or 4 dresses with lots of varying details. You're getting the best of each dress.
It's something that's been done before by other designers, I'm sure I've seen this type of thing at Moschino but Van Der Ham is more painterly with his colours and textures. Unfortunately the clothes lacked polish but I put that down to being a young designer who's just started and probably has very little money. With the right backers he could go far. One of the highlights of London.

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Blue Blue Heart

These are the most striking blues I've seen. This is at Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2011

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Monkeys Are The New Cats

If you keep up with fashion like a massive loser (like me) then you'll know that cats have been HUGE lately thanks to Miuccia Prada's Spring 2010 show for Miu Miu and the there was the Lanvin ad campaign with crazy cat lady Kristen Mcmenamy.

Well forget what you know about cats because now it's all about monkeys. That's right, bundle the cat stuff off to the vet and have it put down.

It's over? Just like that? 

The spring Prada collection is amazing. It was bright colours, bananas, monkeys, baroque, FUR!!!!! stripes and black dresses. I like that it was done entirely in Japanese cotton. I don’t know what’s so special about this type of cotton and if anyone knows then leave a comment. I can only presume it’s super-soft and prohibitively expensive. I think this ebbed over nicely from the men’s collection which had a uniform theme and cotton is the all-round hard-wearing fabric of workwear. 
The workmanship appeared rather simple but that's Prada, they’re not synonomous with impeccably made clothes-not to say that they’re badly made but come on-if you want top-notch sewing/pattern skill and technique you go Dior, Balmain, Hermes.
Prada is intellectual fashion and you can poo-poo that statement all you like but it’s true. People, including myself, like Prada because it appeals to their intellectual vanity. Oh look minimal baroque, what a mindf*ck. I'll take ten skirts and a monkey top thanks.

So I can see why some people would look at this collection and say that a first year fashion student could construct these basic skirts and dresses and that’s quite true they could but they didn't. Miuccia Prada did and that’s what makes my heart skip a beat at the electric furs, the absurd baroque monkeys, the finale of black dresses.
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Srsly you guys, look at the shape of that jacket, the curving shoulder, the nipped waist, the bulbous sleeve. And that BLUE!!!!! I'm dying here. ps, if you look at the Prada Men's show for 2011 you'll see the same shoes. 
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When I first saw this collection I hurriedly wrote down some thoughts and was like I’ll expand upon this later and it didn’t fucking happen.
I’m sitting here trying to write something measured and precise but I’m failing and can’t think.
why is this so fucking amazebomb?!

So here’s what I wrote-

Prints everywhere (duh)

V motif

Repetition theme with layering.

I love how their work evolves, they’re not trend driven like so many American designers

Mid-riff and cut-outs. Most overtly sexual work I’ve seen from them, very much in line with Miuccia Prada’s take on sexy.

Does this mean we’ll be seeing Tavi’s midriff soon?

I don’t think I’m perceptive enough to pin-point their inspirations. I saw Mormans, rural life, working the land, but there was so much more than that. (they were inspired by California and the gold rush).

Final looks felt Poiret-esque, maybe she’s a girl who lives in a forest-or is that tooooo themey?

Gone are their ultra-delicate, draped, twisted, ruched, burnt silks and in place was a far stronger Rodarte girl.

ps, the interview I did with Stella McCartney Lingerie head designer Chloe Julian is up at In The Void. You should check it out

Magazine Drop


So I ran into my local magazine shop hoping I'd get Fantastic Woman. Ended up getting Fantastic Man, Vogue Italia September and Acne Paper. Seventy dollars later. Fuck me in the ass. I'm obvi quite bad with math and didn't really think about how much it'd cost until I got to the counter. I had to stop myself from getting Pop, the one with Japanified Britney on the cover looking suspiciously young.

The Vogue Italia is a 3D issue. I'm so sick of 3D. 3D can suck my dick in 3D. 3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D3D

That's how many magazines came in the Vogue Italia pack. A fucking phonebook.

THAT FUCKING MIU MIU DRESS A-GAIN. I am so beyond over that dress. You know what? Maybe I'll just buy  one and be done with it.

My shoes arrived too. Finally after customs sliced and diced the shoebox. Take a look...

Cut from one end to the other

Maybe they thought there was heroin pressed into the shoebox. I wish.

And I got my bag too. It's not as terrible as I thought it would be. It's pretty meh but it's a good size. It's pleather too. Classy bitch.