Really La Toya, Really?


La Toya Jackson. Selling something called Dream Cream. I mean, reeeeaaaaallly? Of all the celebrity endorsements. Sure you've got Lindsay Lohan doing fake tan but that's plausible. Lindsay is LA gutter stench so she fits right in with tan in a can but La Toya?
So this Dream Cream is actually a hand cream that contains diamond dust and other fancy shit. Presumably La Toya uses it for the handy-J's she has to give to her plastic surgeon coz bitch hasn't had a pay check since 1986.

Alice In Wonderland and Other Filmspirations

Every now and then a film comes out and somehow manages to inspire the way we dress. Sometimes it's a bit forced with magazines doing spreads on getting the look for films that really made no impact such as Australia and Sex & The City The Movie. I once saw a spread-I shit you not-on how to get the look from The Wizard Of Oz. One page had a tin man look, scarecrow etc. It was weird and ridiculous page filler. It may have been Grazia and I hope I'm wrong because Grazia is my not-so-secret shame.
Baz Luhrman's Australia failed to get women in lace gloves and spectator hats but Moulin Rouge inspired dance-crazed fashion spreads and clothes for a season or two. The energy of the film just leapt from the screen to our wardrobes.
The latest to do so is Tim Burton's Alice In Wonderland. I recently saw it at Imax in 3D and I was left wanting more from the film. The costumes were pretty cool too. I wouldn't say amazing, compared to other Burton films like Beetlejuice but pretty cool.
I'm just not sure what it is about Alice that inspires people. Maybe it's that dogged child-like naivety she has? At work the other day I noticed a girl wearing tights printed with spades, diamonds, clubs and hearts. It may not have been Alice inspired though, she may just have an overt gambling addiction.
So will you be getting a blue pinafore?

Below is my Alice inspired look which I won't be rocking for 2 reasons: A) I can't afford any of these clothes and B) I'm a guy
So there's a Roberto Cavalli dress, Rick Owens leather jacket and Lanvin heels.




















Gap is Coming to Australia


This fall, Gap will be opening it's first store in Australia at Chadstone shopping centre in Melbourne, the largest mall in the Southern Hemisphere.
They're a little late to the game but I think the novelty of the brand for Australians will make them forget that we already have stores like the Gap here.
I'm interested to know what the pricing will be like. Will it be matched to US prices or will it be hugely inflated like American Apparel which is virtually double. Also, will we get Gap Design Editions? Also, do we really need more khakis and polo tops?

A Leather Tracksuit at Chloe!




As a runway show Chloe is always understated and under the direction of Hannah MacGibbon I find it even more so. She almost seems afraid to rock the boat but I could be missing something.

The pieces were great and extremely covetable like last seasons camel wedge boot that was everywhere and ripped off numerous times. This season was more or less the same Chloe girl. She’s breezy, relaxed, pretty and sometimes boyish. This time there was a little western theme mixed with masculine trouser suits. Embellishment was mostly torn away leaving clean lines. It delved a little too far into the 70’s with a knit skirt and top and some of the colour choices. You only need to look at what Missoni have been up to to realize a knit skirt can look ultra modern. Most of the trousers were cool. If I were a girl I’d probably wear most of the collection. Another favourite was the black leather tracksuit. It was just sort of wrong but I loved it.


Viktor & Rolf's Balancing Act






Above: How did a dress turn into the coat below? Cray²


To be truly appreciated, you needed to be at the Viktor & Rolf show. I like so many others was not fortunate enough to be invited to such an illustrious event so it was with much confusion that I viewed thir collection in image form. At first I had no idea what was going on with V&R on stage until I went to their charming website and viewed a video of the show.

Kristen Mcmenamy precariously wobbled out to the centre of the stage followed by V&R.

A near-naked model then came out and stood opposite Mcmenamy while V&R removed a layer of clothing from Mcmenamy. They zipped, pulled, ruffed and adjusted what was essentially a pup tent into a jaunty, belted fur coat. This was probably my favourite look from the whole collection.

So this undressing and redressing continued until Mcmenamy was nearly naked until fully dressed models came out and V&R undressed them and put the clothes back on to Mcmenamy, reversing the whole thing. It sounds confusing and you need to watch the video because it’s not as confusing as I make it out to be. Unfortunately most of the clothes were a little uninspired and I think V&R have struggled for many seasons now with the demand to create something that’s commercially viable and to follow their surrealist hearts. It’s sad but the work they were doing 10 years ago was far more interesting than what we see now but unfortunately art and hype doesn’t always keep a business running, just ask Miguel Androver.


Well done old chap!


Catholic-free Givenchy




Givenchy didn’t capture my imagination this season. Like his last couture collection it lacked polish and it felt very cookie cutter Tisci. All the ingredients were there: lace, single blocks of colour for an entire outfit, loads of black and leather. But there were a few nice touches like the opening coat in a boney beige tone. There were also some beautiful tuxedo jackets and there’s been quite a few this season, United Bamboo comes to mind. I did find the layering theme interesting. If you view some of the looks you’ll see what I mean. And how weird is it that Tisci and Ghesquiere did a remarkably similar pant. They both did a high waisted version with a zip that was half undone to create these curling flaps. I didn’t find it particularly inventive but it was a nice touch and in Tisci’s case added to the layering theme he had.

I’d like to see Tisci try and move away from his usual schtick, perhaps do a tracksuit or something remotely humorous. He’s taken some steps, like removing any traces of Catholocism but it’s like come one, push yourself further, stop being so comfortable.


Oh The Shoes


They were deserving of their own show. In a gallery perhaps. They were mini works of art that must’ve taken Pierre Hardy months to perfect. How to describe them? Let me see. Like a woman wearing a traditional court shoe had walked through 2001 Space Oddysey and clamped some hardware to the soles for those special trips to Mars when collecting rock samples. It was just mind-bending stuff.





Monastic at YSL




Stefano Pilati’s YSL show was interesting. A few critics found it too strict and lacking allure. I think you really had to look for the allure and the sensuality of the pieces because it was certainly there in the sheer sleeves on a top or the dippy hems of skirts that drew attention to the legs and added interest to what would otherwise be just another pencil skirt.

YSL under Pilati’s direction has for several seasons now focussed on daywear and really, how much sensuality do you want to ooze when attending an important business meeting?

I do agree that after 30-odd looks the collection as a whole was stand-offish and cold but on their own they look chic and powerful. I also loved the 70’s new York working girl silhouette with a skirt that hit below the knee. It was strangely refreshing.


ALEXANDER THE GREAT







There are many adjectives I could use to describe the final collection by Alexander McQueen but they all sound so hokey and meaningless. Haunting, beautiful, tortured etc.
The show itself was brief at only 16 looks but it was the essence and distillation of a genius who had so much to say and I feel fortunate to have seen anything at all.
There were digital prints which had been a fascination of McQueen's only this time instead of scales and moss it was Byzantine paintings and Grinling Gibbons sculpture. The way in which they were draped also had hints of his spring show but this time it felt more controlled. It was ghostly and eeire but the rich Rococo embroideries picked out in gold added strength because the McQueen woman has always had a spine no matter how romantic and frothy a gown may get.
The digital prints of angel wings that were meticulously positioned on the backs of some dresses were echoed with real feathers in the underlay of one dress and the final piece was a beautifully fitted coat, smothered in gold feathers with a flood of embroidered tulle pouring from beaneath.

When someone dies there are always these heartfelt outpourings of emotion that often paint a gilded portrait of that person and you can't help but think 'that's utter bullshit! Mary was never generous, John was never a gentle soul'. I never knew McQueen and I'll make no blind statements about who he truly was but I will say this: There will never be another designer like him. The agony, the spectacle, the beauty and the emotion.






Balenciaga Beyond Belief







I think there's been a bit of a sag with Balenciaga lately but Fall 2010 has put Nicolas Ghesquiere back on top.
The fact that he shows clothes which defy description or category is testament to his skill. You can't simply look at his work and break it down into mere trends like you would with anything from New York or Milan. You just look at it and you want to ask, what exactly are you telling me this season? But the key to his work is to forget everything you've seen and just take it in.
So what was there? I don't even know. Bulbous coats slashed with strips of colour that was reminiscent of Spring 2010 but with backpack-like furs stamped on. A dash of hospital green and candy floss. There were jackets in a marle grey modelled by Liya Kebede, a long time favourite model of Ghesquiere that made you think of the work he was doing when he first started out. And then the shoes by long time collaborator Pierre Hardy that were a mixture of classic plus wood plus mineral.
I don't know, you just need to look at the collection and take it in. Ghesquiere is one of very few designers who are free to do what they want and really push fashion into a place that is more than mere trends, sales, editorial and especially the 'I want it now, I need it'. It's fashion. Scratch that. It's more than fashion.