It’s been confirmed that Martin Margiela has stopped designing his collection and it’s now done by a team. For his fans, that kinda stings. Most editors and journalists frown upon teams doing collections because they feel the work lacks vision. This may or may not be true, I guess it depends on the brand. If you look at Chloe a few years back their reviews were slammed when done by a team. Maybe with Margiela, because it’s such a niche brand and a small brand that the loss of Margiela is not being well received.
I actually liked the collection (paper-like jackets, one looked like a holiday poster unfolding over the model’s breasts, another in hot pink appeared to be peeling to pieces) but if I were in a position to buy these clothes I think I wouldn’t. If I wanted to buy Margiela I would want it to be designed by Margiela, not an assistant, regardless of how many years they’ve worked with him. I think he needs to name a head designer, if only for the brands preservation. Whether one of his assistants steps up to the plate or they bring in someone else they better do it quick otherwise the mainstream press will continue to be negative.


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