Frankly I get a bit tired of trying to be constructive with reviews. Even if I don’t necessarily like a collection I will always find something positive. I found for Spring, Bruno Pieters was joyless. The entire collection had a colour palette of nude, white and black. It was beyond stark. Designers like Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy often work with a strict palette too but the clothes still draw a reaction and stir the viewer. Not so with Pieters. The collection was heavy with unwearable clothes: sheer tops and trousers? Are you kidding? If he’s trying to make some aesthetic statement using sheer fabrics then he’s far too late to the game. It’s not ‘out there’, cutting edge or avant garde. It’s boring and no one wants to buy boring, ask Escada.
Now for the positive note. Pieters worked up a big shoulder with very organic, rocky shapes on several tops. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a sleeve like this and it was beautiful.


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