VINTAGE KATE MOSS


Kate Moss has launched her forth fragrance, Vintage. The scent has notes of pink pepper, white freesia and mandarin with a heart of heliotrope, jasmine and almond flower and base notes of tonka bean, vanilla and skin musks.

Worst of Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010

Do I really need to go into detail over these Skecher Teva Puma clog stunners? No.

Louis Vuitton




Chanel

Hey Karl, Blossom called, she wants her red suede clogs with flower detail back.

Prada


Do they all smoke bongs at Miuccia's apartment or is it the coke they do at Karl's country estate?

WORST OF SPRING 2010

Erin Fetherston


Fetherston thought she'd do cutesy heart motifs for Spring. Guess who else did too?

Emanuel Ungaro


That's right, everyone's favourite meth-faced design extraordinaire Lindsay Lohan. She also did cutesy heart shaped silk purses studded with crystals. I'll save you the pain and won't post those little Valentines day clearance bin nightmares. Kidding! Here it is below...

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA SPRING 2010

It’s been confirmed that Martin Margiela has stopped designing his collection and it’s now done by a team. For his fans, that kinda stings. Most editors and journalists frown upon teams doing collections because they feel the work lacks vision. This may or may not be true, I guess it depends on the brand. If you look at Chloe a few years back their reviews were slammed when done by a team. Maybe with Margiela, because it’s such a niche brand and a small brand that the loss of Margiela is not being well received.
I actually liked the collection (paper-like jackets, one looked like a holiday poster unfolding over the model’s breasts, another in hot pink appeared to be peeling to pieces) but if I were in a position to buy these clothes I think I wouldn’t. If I wanted to buy Margiela I would want it to be designed by Margiela, not an assistant, regardless of how many years they’ve worked with him. I think he needs to name a head designer, if only for the brands preservation. Whether one of his assistants steps up to the plate or they bring in someone else they better do it quick otherwise the mainstream press will continue to be negative.





BRUNO PIETERS SPRING 2010

Frankly I get a bit tired of trying to be constructive with reviews. Even if I don’t necessarily like a collection I will always find something positive. I found for Spring, Bruno Pieters was joyless. The entire collection had a colour palette of nude, white and black. It was beyond stark. Designers like Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy often work with a strict palette too but the clothes still draw a reaction and stir the viewer. Not so with Pieters. The collection was heavy with unwearable clothes: sheer tops and trousers? Are you kidding? If he’s trying to make some aesthetic statement using sheer fabrics then he’s far too late to the game. It’s not ‘out there’, cutting edge or avant garde. It’s boring and no one wants to buy boring, ask Escada.
Now for the positive note. Pieters worked up a big shoulder with very organic, rocky shapes on several tops. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a sleeve like this and it was beautiful.





GILES DEACON SPRING 2010

Prehistoric cyber 50’s arachnid. One of the trickiest themes to pull off in Paris but Giles Deacon did it mostly with ease and irreverence. Overall the collection was youthful but quite grown up at the same time, particularly look two, a lady-like buttoned day-dress with a, what was it, a rock print? an animal print in lime? Either way it was pretty. The triceratops plush bag? Yes please. There’s something not quite right about his clothes and a different type of beauty is evoked, perhaps damaged. Was that lurex? PVC? Yes, some of the fabrics were very late 90’s. The effect was cheap looking and the irony was noted however a silver tulle net dress with silver stripes missed the mark, looking like a suburban costume shop sale bin item.






GET INSPIRED



Viktor & Rolf Spring 2010, Paris. Thats a pregnant Roisin Murphy to the right.

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2010 Review

Ultra-late review I know but better late than never. This one's for you Simone.

Opening look: Some sort of angular cut leather jacket, grey top fluting out around hips, trail of white fabric coming from beneath the top, slouchy navy boots. Umm, A-MA-ZING.
Trying to write a review of work such as this just doesn’t do the collection justice. It really was just beautiful and so graphic that the clothes speak to you immediately. Black jackets with a white lining were terrific and the floaty dresses at the end were a girl’s dream summer wardrobe. They were crunchy squishy clouds. Imagine how cool that would be? I know right?





VERSUS SPRING 2010

I always find the relationship between Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane quite odd. On the surface she seems so uber-freak and he so geeky Scottish dude that I can’t connect the dots. For Kane’s debut collection back in Spring 2007, Versace donated shoes for the show. She’s now found solid faith in his work that he now designs Versus, which was Donatella’s baby back in the days when Gianni Versace was still alive.
I think it’s great that Versus is back and Kane did a nice collection of short, sexy dresses with cut-outs and those ubiquitous safety pins that launched the career of Elizabeth Hurley all those years ago. The most interesting feature was a sleeve that had the top layer cut out only leaving the underside still intact. It was quite a dressmaking feat, even Kane had to admit he couldn’t have made something like that in London. This is definitely the beginning of something special.





LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2010

Jacobs pandered to his Japanese fans for Spring at Louis Vuitton. Actually, he pandered to anyone who loves their look to be kawaii. It was a Hippie trance 90’s girl tramping to a rave with some beautiful little bags jangling with doo-dads and fur tails. I liked the garment panels broken up into sections and highlighted with contrasting fabric, particularly a pleated skirt and a jacket. The bike shorts looked fun and Jacobs had done this for his signature line as well as the bum-bag too. I guess it doesn’t hurt to cover your trend bases at both houses.
The fur moccasins were not chic nor flattering. It looked like the models had stomped a poodle to death with the remains left stuck between their toes. Ghastly. The tweedy looking jackets with green military pockets felt like some attempt to be conceptual rather than chic. I dunno, sometimes there’s something so self-conscious and art-world approval seeking about his work that it reeks of insecurity. Is he trying to keep up with such friends as Elizabeth Peyton and Sophia Coppola? I don’t know.









COMME DES DARCONS SPRING 2010

The clothes for Spring Comme Des Garcons were like miniature landscapes full of texture and bumps. Jackets looked roughly hewn from fabric scraps including an off the roll machine made sequin one. There were lycra bike shorts and trench coats that looked like the shell had been torn off to make a lighter, summer version. It was making do with what you have-perhaps a statement on the current economy? The seams on the trench were puckered and tortured, showing that you don't have to be perfect to be beautiful. It amazes me that after 40 years Comme create relevant, avant garde collections.Bravo.





TREND ALERT: THE MULLET DRESS

A little trend I noticed popping up on the Spring runways is hte mullet dress. Short in front and long at the back. I first noticed this style at Olivier Theyskens Spring 2009 show for Nina Ricci and now it seems to be everywhere for Spring 2010.

Nina Ricci Spring 2009


Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2010



Haider Ackermann Spring 2010


Threeasfour Spring 2010


Sportmax Spring 2010


Hermes Spring 2010


Just remember to avoid lime green and ruching like this hot mess.

Hot Mess Spring 2002