MISSONI SPRING 2010

Great spring collection from knitwear masters Missoni. Head designer Angela Missoni created a long, lean silhouette of gauzy knits in muted colours. Every look was layered. A dress had a cropped singlet, cardigans were wrapped around waists. It was all so wrapped up and I'm thinking, this is summer right? The thought of being stuck in traffic in blistering heat, wrapped in knitwear makes my skin crawl but everything looked light-weight and fairly breezy. Anyway, if you can afford to buy Missoni then you can afford a car with air conditioning.





DOLCE & GABBANA SPRING 2010

Typical D&G fare. Basic, straight-forward theme: Sicily! How original and unexpected right? Plenty of fine lace dresses and skirts in black or white. A tuxedo/matador jacket looked nice but it didn’t look sleek when paired with saggy, unflattering jodhpur-like pants as seen on the final look. The leather neck ties were cute. I'm being overly critical though. There was an outerwear theme and some mis-matched florals that looked okay plus the garconne looks gave a good excuse for flats. I dunno, it's like, you're doing leopard print and crucifxes again? Put me on the waiting list!




BOTTEGA VENETA SPRING 2010

Thomas Maier goes from strength to strength each season. Apparently he wanted the outfits to be like a blank canvas. I think that worked especially well for the first half of the show. I found myself looking at the models and the clothes brought out their personalities, so to that effect he achieved what he set out to do.
The first 20 looks were mostly in cream. It became slightly tedious, particularly the pants that looked like they were made for a yoga class. Then look 21 rolled out. A pair of cream trousers with a wide green waistband and a draped top, also in cream with a small strip of violet across the top. After 20 looks of cream it was a relief to see some beautiful colour. This was done effectively, leaving you wanting more. Then he switched briefly back to cream. These looks were paired with jewel-toned bags which was a great device for drawing attention to their beautiful woven creations.





JONATHAN SAUNDERS SPRING 2010

Saunders is back with more colour-blocking, this time in baby blue, pink and faun.
Some daywear pieces looked clunky and either weren’t finished well or the fabric wasn’t right for the look. The white jacket with sheer sleeves was a bit of a mess and a jacket with a blue and white cube print looked amateurish.
However, a faun dress with a geometric pink insert was sexy and chic. The insert had sets of studs tracing the lines of the insert’s print. It sounds more complex than it looks and I’m not really explaining it very well. There was a beautiful saltwater taffy coloured dress with a simple frill and a curling device under a slip that gave it bounce.
I think Saunders works better with more fluid fabrics like silk. These were his stronger pieces.





SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2010

While I write this review it’s about 11am-ish in Paris which means fashion week has just begun. There’ll probably be no photos to look at until tomorrow so in the mean time I thought I’d catch up on some collections I’ve not looked at from Milan. I think Limi Feu and Gareth Pugh are showing today. Squeal!
What’s really struck me after looking at the Ferragamo collection is just how flawless the craftsmanship is in Milan. But the fabrics too! No one else, including Paris, can make clothes like Italians. The Ferragamo collection is ready to wear and it looks like freakin couture.
The collection started with some nice pieces that focused on silhouette. Unlined cocoon sleeved jackets, curvy jodhpurs and bouncy blouses looked soft and inviting. There was plenty of texture via way of snake skin on skirts and there was a nice wavy, bubbled texture on a lemon blouse.
Ferragamo is primarily a leather goods company and they did some sexy fold-over snakeskin bags in raspberry, yellow, taupe and white.I just went to Style.com to steal some images *blush* and read the review. Ouch. Nicole Phelps can be such a cunt. What I didn't know was that this was head designer Cristina Ortiz's final collection. She didn't cut the mustard so they replaced her with their menswear designer.




PUCCI SPRING 2010

Matthew Williamson has left the house. Thank god, I really don't like what he does anyway.
So now they've got Peter Dundas (formerly of Ungaro) at the helm. I looked at this collection and I could just imagine the CEO in a meeting with Dundas.
CEO- We're looking for something, youthful, sexy, edgy. Kinda like, oh gee, what's that label? Ah yes, Balmain. Just do Balmain.
Dundas- Yes sir.
I dunno, this is just another Milan collection where I can't fault the creativity, the workmanship, the sheer work that goes into making a collection etc but it's just so...blah. Like, yeah, you did a sequined mini dress. AMAZE ME GOD-DAMMIT! So now Pucci will be the next hot label. The feathered, tassled dress pictured will be on every red carpet in a town near you.
ps, How hot is model Rose Cordero? She's so Grace Jones.



ALBERTA FERRETTI SPRING 2010

In an ever-increasing fast-paced life of work, work, work; Alberta Ferretti has created a sartorial antidote for spring: a soft-focus, romantic collection that politely says “relax”.
The opening look was quite beachy with a wide-brimmed hat seductively covering the eyes of the model. This was worn with a long white shirt with a bib wrap that looked like macramé. Ferretti played with transparency which is popping up everywhere despite my thoughts that sheer dressing was dead and done four seasons ago.
There were nice flat white leather shoes and it was refreshing to see a below the knee dress. There were plenty of dreamy colours too. Blush, olive, violet and a squiggly piped appliqué running around the sides of a pale lavender dress were pretty without being sugary and also dealt a card to spring’s texture story.





SPORTMAX SPRING 2010

Italians do the best daywear and Sportmax always do stuff that you want right then and there, take it off the rack, put it on, look casual yet achingly chic. Spring’s collection didn’t disappoint because there were so many great pieces to update a wardrobe. There were cute bloomer-style shorts and a gorgeous cream dress that cut away from the centre to reveal a shorter skirt underneath was genius. This cutting away from the body was also done on some sharp, sleeveless, sporty military dresses in olive and khaki.






VERSACE SPRING 2010

Spring saw Donatella Versace return to her old design ideals and pump out a sexually charged collection. Over the past few seasons there's been a marked change in Versace’s designs. Gone were the acid-bright prints and glitzy trash gold Medusa head leaving a more sophisticated and approachable aesthetic. Insiders say this change was due to recently departed Versace CEO Giancarlo Di Risio. Apparently he oversaw the entire design process and encouraged a more commercial look. This is the first collection without his alleged input and, well, the change is evident. At first I thought ‘wow, Versace is making you re-examine what it is to be sexy right now.’ Now I’m thinking, ‘no she’s just doing what she does best, slutty clothes.’
When was the last time you saw a fresco printed plastic micro-mini on the runway? Donatella played with spring’s pastel palette using lavender, lemon and peach but threw in zestier limes and an acrid yellow on a perforated leather dress with metal draped inserts and studs. Sound terrible? It was. But not everything was Hollywood Champagne bar stripper garb. If you take away the mini skirts there were some beautiful jackets that’d look smart for the office and a good selection of tasteful leather bags.

The final looks were classic amped up Versace and red carpet ready. An aqua coloured dress with a side cut-out and a thigh/crotch grazing split left me thinking oh god, who’s gonna try and wear that?





PRADA SPRING 2010

I've been eagerly awaiting this collection and got a wee shock of excitement when I saw images and reviews posted on The NY Times. So far the reviews are fairly negative from Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes. I made a little comment on Cathy's blog about the collection, took a shower and mulled over what I'd seen.
I initially said that the collection wasn't optimistic and that buyers and press are geared for upbeat collections after New York set that tone thanks to Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein, well the list goes on.
Now that I've thought about it more and looked at the pics again I think it definitely was optimistic but in a humourous way and that isn't gelling with people.
I think people were expecting a fantastic Miuccia mind-fuck but instead got a stylish whoopee cushion.
The collection had some sharp steely grey coats, bermuda shorts and too-short shirts. The coats and shorts had frayed edges which was unexpected. The collection then moved through to some postcard printed shorts and ugly cross-wrapped tops before taking a turn into split baby-doll shaped tops in some crinkly textured fabric, a key trend emerging for spring. Finally there was the plastic chandelier dresses layered over knickers and brief white tops. They had similarities in the fall lace collection from 2009 and the chain-mail dresses from fall 02.
The accessories were typical Miuccia ugly-pretty. The shoes were pretty in shape but ugly in lucite with jangling plastic crystals everywhere. Then the bags with traditional shapes but done in beach-ready plastic pushed the boundaries of taste which is what Prada do every season.













Below is an outfit from Prada's Fall 2002 collection