It’s definitely going to be a gentleman’s summer according to Paris and Milan. And why not? If you don’t have manners and etiquette then you can at least look like you do thanks to a great selection of tailored, dapper clothes hitting the stores.
Tailoring is going to be a welcome return this summer. Try giving the sloppy, low v-neck t-shirts a rest and grab a crisp shirt, the best coming from Raf Simons in a smart drop-shouldered version. Pair it with some grey cuffed shorts from Louis Vuitton and you’ll be rowing with the Princeton crew in no time.


Head designer Rosemary Rodriguez of Thierry Mugler, opted for a Great Gatsby affair of mellow pastels and pinstripes. There was a new masculinity and not a trace of 80’s irony in the jackets with shoulder pads. Colours ranged from cerise, through to the lightest of blues and yellows. Junya Watanabe also had a great show of snobbish young men strutting along in a remarkably wearable collection of plaids. As well as this, a collaboration with Mackintosh produced some great coats in beige that would look perfect on a sunny day by the river.


A sports trend also popped up in several big-name collections. Most notably at Louis Vuitton where the humble cycle courier was the inspiration for a street-smart collection of taxi cab yellow sports jackets, thigh-grazing cuffed shorts and pushed down socks. It was a smart vehicle for their strength: leather goods. Large leather bags of various shapes were on show in single tones including the courier bag which is perfect for stashing an Oscar Wilde novel.

Givenchy was another major player in the sports field. A strong graphic presence was used as a star motif appeared on pants and shorts, suggestively bursting from the crotch. The star theme reappeared at the end of the show, this time in bronze, studded onto pants and tracing the neck of a sweater. This is definitely one of Ricardo Tisci’s signatures, having previously used heavy studs in his womenswear collections. Drop crotch leggings in jersey were also there and will no doubt appeal to Tisci’s die-hard Gothic-loving fans.

John Galliano’s collection traced Napoleon Bonaparte’s travels. A heavy military touch was off-set by the choice of materials used. Waists were cinched in a military manner but done in what looked like shantung silk with a strip going from the waist, up across the shoulder. This theme reappeared later in the show as the straps of bags.
Galliano had a section featuring billowy torn white chiffon tops. The models looked like ghosts from Napoleon’s army, drifting down the runway. This was all mixed in with cuffed, cropped trousers, heavily tailored jackets and traditional coats, some with beautifully beaded cuff details.

Finally, Raf Simons made one of the strongest arguments for a return to decorum. It was a collection of sublime tailoring with a belt motif boldly cinching the waist, wrist and in one case the neck. The belt motif morphed into a series of snakes printed on chiffon tops. Perhaps not the most wearable of looks but it was a romantic counter-balance to the sharp, sombre tailoring of the first half of the show.

There’s no excuse to be a slob this summer though you will be forgiven for not throwing down your jacket on a mud puddle for a damsel in distress.


NipponBronka said...

Slovenly-dramatic to dandirificly-non-chalont will be a hard transformation. I'm going to start now.

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