MENS SPRING SUMMER 2010

It’s definitely going to be a gentleman’s summer according to Paris and Milan. And why not? If you don’t have manners and etiquette then you can at least look like you do thanks to a great selection of tailored, dapper clothes hitting the stores.
Tailoring is going to be a welcome return this summer. Try giving the sloppy, low v-neck t-shirts a rest and grab a crisp shirt, the best coming from Raf Simons in a smart drop-shouldered version. Pair it with some grey cuffed shorts from Louis Vuitton and you’ll be rowing with the Princeton crew in no time.
RAF SIMONS

LOUIS VUITTON

Head designer Rosemary Rodriguez of Thierry Mugler, opted for a Great Gatsby affair of mellow pastels and pinstripes. There was a new masculinity and not a trace of 80’s irony in the jackets with shoulder pads. Colours ranged from cerise, through to the lightest of blues and yellows. Junya Watanabe also had a great show of snobbish young men strutting along in a remarkably wearable collection of plaids. As well as this, a collaboration with Mackintosh produced some great coats in beige that would look perfect on a sunny day by the river.
THIERRY MUGLER




JUNYA WATANABE


A sports trend also popped up in several big-name collections. Most notably at Louis Vuitton where the humble cycle courier was the inspiration for a street-smart collection of taxi cab yellow sports jackets, thigh-grazing cuffed shorts and pushed down socks. It was a smart vehicle for their strength: leather goods. Large leather bags of various shapes were on show in single tones including the courier bag which is perfect for stashing an Oscar Wilde novel.
LOUIS VUITTON



Givenchy was another major player in the sports field. A strong graphic presence was used as a star motif appeared on pants and shorts, suggestively bursting from the crotch. The star theme reappeared at the end of the show, this time in bronze, studded onto pants and tracing the neck of a sweater. This is definitely one of Ricardo Tisci’s signatures, having previously used heavy studs in his womenswear collections. Drop crotch leggings in jersey were also there and will no doubt appeal to Tisci’s die-hard Gothic-loving fans.
GIVENCHY




John Galliano’s collection traced Napoleon Bonaparte’s travels. A heavy military touch was off-set by the choice of materials used. Waists were cinched in a military manner but done in what looked like shantung silk with a strip going from the waist, up across the shoulder. This theme reappeared later in the show as the straps of bags.
Galliano had a section featuring billowy torn white chiffon tops. The models looked like ghosts from Napoleon’s army, drifting down the runway. This was all mixed in with cuffed, cropped trousers, heavily tailored jackets and traditional coats, some with beautifully beaded cuff details.
JOHN GALLIANO




Finally, Raf Simons made one of the strongest arguments for a return to decorum. It was a collection of sublime tailoring with a belt motif boldly cinching the waist, wrist and in one case the neck. The belt motif morphed into a series of snakes printed on chiffon tops. Perhaps not the most wearable of looks but it was a romantic counter-balance to the sharp, sombre tailoring of the first half of the show.
RAF SIMONS


There’s no excuse to be a slob this summer though you will be forgiven for not throwing down your jacket on a mud puddle for a damsel in distress.

CHOCOLATE LOVE



Just checked out the Calvin Klein Spring mens collection and Jesus titty-fucking Christ, this hot piece of chocolate man opened AND closed the show! I don't know who he is because I don't keep up with male models as much as I do with the ladies but I'd drop my pants quicker than a hooker with a drug addiction if I had the chance to be pounded by this guy.
Oh and the collection was marvellous. Marvellous is such a gay word. Maaaahvellous darling! Fuck you fashion fag!

DUKE MAGAZINE


I went into Polyester Books today with a budget of $40. Spend no more or eat instant noodles for the rest of the week was my challenge.
I did well. I got a couple of sub-par zines and found a magazine called Duke all for under 20 bucks. Duke is amazing. It's trash, it's smut, it's style. It's Take 5 on roids.

FASHION COPYCAT STRIKES AGAIN!


LEFT: Vintage jacket by East West Musical Instruments. RIGHT: Balenciaga Cruise 09/10

Nicolas Ghesquiere has done it again. In his latest cruise collection there is a sharp looking leather jacket with a nice cut-out cuff detail.
Well the bastard copied it.
Check out Addicted to YSL's blog for the full story.

It just irks me that someone who's universally praised for originality does this. There's nothing wrong with referencing something, that's common. But blatant copying such as this where it looks nearly identical is not referencing, it's just fucking lazy.
I saw so much of that shit when I was at school. Hell, we even had a class on how to copy a garment as we were told by our pattern-making teacher "look, you'll end up having to do this eventually when you get a job".

RICHARD NICOLL CRUISE





London based Aussie raised Richard Nicoll's cruise collection is really hot. It's got some interestingly draped pieces held together with regal looking ribbons appropriated from medals.
It also includes his signature block effects used to frame the wearer.
In other words, you'd look chic. Get some.

ARE WATCHES UNDERRATED?


Who the fuck cares really. Well I do. OK so I thought about it. FUUUUUCK. Watches kinda are underrated these days when cell phones replaced Baby-G's sometime in the 90's.
I just ordered this sweet new watch. It's by Nixon. I'm not one for surf brands but this one made me so excited I jumped off my seat a little and sharted.
I never owned a baby g. My brother did. He lost that weird metal/rubber clip thingy attached to it. My Mum was majorly pissed.

Ahh, remember the days when everything you bought was made from cloudy rubber and came in primary colours? Well that's me re-living those mo's with the Nixon.
I'm also trying to channel my inner 16 yo Tokyo rittalin addict like this hot slut. Seriously, bitch has a koala bear. You know she feeds it wasabi peas and talks to it in a scary baby voice on the train back home from therapy.

KAWAAI LV

KATE & DARIA JOIN THE MARINES!



No they didn't. If they did they'd have been viciously pack-raped & that's my dream so step off ladies.
Sahsha has gone & now Daria has joined Kate for the latest Longchamp campaign shot by Mert & Marcus.

CALVIN KLEIN RESORT





Resort collections are upon us. They're so random in their appearance too. I do my daily scouring of fashion updates only to find a stack of resort shows have cropped up.
I love where resort is going too. Instead of a literal take on what resort could be ie, splashy prints, sailor stripes, beachy shit etc, I'm seeing designers take the collections somewhere more in line with what their brand is about. Francisco Costa is one of these designers who's just shown an amazing collection.
Mostly everything was transparent but that shouldn't mean it's unwearable. Those sheer trousers? Wear your swimsuit underneath it when strolling to the beach!
There was something distinctly Japanese about this collection too.
I think it was the AMAZING shiny flat shoes and the translucent Yojhi Yamamoto-like wrap over coats at the beginning of the collection mixed with earthy tones that elicited these references.
Here are just a few of the 23 looks from the collection.