RODARTE, KAREN WALKER + MORE NY AW 08/09

Rodarte picked right up from last seasons cobweb knits, painterly chiffons & elegant stripper shoes, further cementing their reputation as the go to gals for delicate, modern eveningwear with just a touch of bite. A japanese horror film theme was one of their inspirations which did show through but call me short-sighted because several of the looks conjured up what Coco Chanel might look like if she were raised from the dead a la Beetlejuice. They were just not of this world. The Mulleavy sisters are true visionaires.
Kiwi designer Karen Walker it would seem can just do no wrong in New York. She's received rave reviews for her eclectic AW show. Deservedly so. Walker showed a sharp mix of girly dresses, velvet blazers & tie-dyed trousers. Walker's skill lies in designing clothes that young women want to wear, sticking to a formula while always keeping it fresh & desirable.
Marc by Marc Jacobs wasn't particularly of interest but I think I've been saying that for a few seasons now. Rei Kawakubo he is not. Leave the deconstructed looks to the Japanese & the Belgians.

Rodarte






HALSTON AW0809

For the past few months my ears pricked up every time I heard the mention of Halston being resuscitated by Harvey Weinstein, an ex-Versace designer & Rachel 'I'm more influential than Wintour' Zoe. So I was excited to see what they'd come up with & to be fair it wasn't half bad. Sure it wasn't ground-breaking but neither was Halston himself. The man made shirt dresses & simple billowy gowns for New York's downtown hip & drug-fucked (Liza Minelli sans hip, natch).
The fabrics were beautiful, the silhouettes went from body-con to flowing goddess & the colours were great, all without making bumbling references to the past.
As much as I enjoyed this collection I don't see this venture lasting more than two to three seasons. Halston's fashion history was too short & is now skewered to one decade, the 70's, leaving little for the head designer to bounce off (look what happened at Biba). Sure Weinstein is doing this mostly for his gf who incidentally is part of the design team but like all great businessmen he'll want profit eventually & profit doesn't come without accessories.
They might want to act quick & run up some sample bags & get them in a showroom quickly. Images below. PS) Since body-con has returned is it just my imagination or are models now at their most painfully thin. The girl in the pants needs a Big Mac stat!)



NY FASHION WEEK

OK NY fashion week has begun & already a few surprises. So far we've got sunburned models, a tough as nails collection from Alexander Wang & Juan Carlos Obando hand sewing his entire collection.
Apparently several models got crisped by the lights at one designers show. I'm guessing Lacoste, who btw had some really great pieces & a stellar colour palette. You must check out Alexander Wang. So far alot of designers are doing loads of boring silk dress variations (Costello Tagliapietra to name one) & along comes Wang & socks everyone in the face with a tough, dark collection of believably wearable daywear. He even threw in a long, straight skirt which believe you me will be the next hot shape. Yay 90's.

Lacoste







Alexander Wang